An analysis of the declared ingredients of products marketed as dermocosmetics and cosmeceuticals with focus on sensitizers and irritants

Grodzka, Natalia; Plichta, Danuta; Spiewak, Radoslaw

doi:10.14320/EMK.2021.003.en

Estetologia Medyczna i Kosmetologia

An analysis of the declared ingredients of products marketed as "dermocosmetics" and "cosmeceuticals" with focus on sensitizers and irritants

Natalia Grodzka, Danuta Plichta, Radoslaw Spiewak

Recommended citation format: Grodzka N, Plichta D, Spiewak R: An analysis of the declared ingredients of products marketed as "dermocosmetics" and "cosmeceuticals" with focus on sensitizers and irritants. Estetol Med Kosmetol 2021; 11: 003.en. DOI: https://dx.doi.org/10.14320/EMK.2021.003.en

Abstract

Producers of "dermocosmetics" and "cosmeceuticals" declare their safety and unique formulas, although these products are not subject to any other legal regulations than other cosmetics. Aim: To analyze the composition of "dermocosmetics" and "cosmeceuticals" with particular emphasis on sensitizing and irritating ingredients, and a survey on the perception of "dermocosmetics" by consumers. Material and methods: The analysis included face creams designated as "dermocosmetic" or "cosmeceutical". Due to the small number of 'cosmeceuticals' found, they were classified as dermocosmetics, as in both cases the producers declared the same properties. The products were divided into 4 categories depending on the unit that recognized them as a "dermocosmetic": I. Producer's declaration, II. Drugstore declaration, III. Pharmacy declaration and IV. No declaration. On the basis of the Annexes to the Regulation of the European Parliament and the Council (EC) No. 1223/2009, "problematic" substances have been identified. Chi2 and U Mann-Whitney tests were used. In addition, an online survey was carried out with 14 questions about the perception of "dermocosmetics" by consumers. Results: 1237 different ingredients were identified from the 200 products included. The analysis included those that occurred at least 5 times in total in the compared groups. 176 were identified, of which 15 were "problematic" components and 5 were potentially allergenic dyes. "Problematic" substances appeared at least once in 88%, 62%, 58% and 54% of products from the categories "Without declaration", "Producer declaration", Pharmacy declaration "," Drugstore declaration ", respectively. (p<0.001). The most common "problematic" substance in all categories was "Parfum". Most of the respondents (77%) considered "dermocosmetics" to be safer than ordinary cosmetics. Conclusions: At least half of "dermocosmetics", similarly to "ordinary" cosmetics, contain substances with known sensitizing and irritating potential. Products defined by manufacturers as "dermocosmetics" or "cosmeceuticals" contain fewer "problematic" substances than products bought in drugstores. Regardless of the term "dermocosmetic", "cosmeceutical" or its absence, almost all products contain a fragrance of unknown composition (Parfum), which makes it impossible to assess their safety. The vast majority of consumers perceive "dermocosmetics" as safer and better tested products than "ordinary" cosmetics, which is not justified in the light of the results of this study.

Keywords: dermocosmetics, cosmeceuticals, cosmetic products, face creams, dangerous substance, sensitizers, irritants

| Polish version |

Estetologia Medyczna i Kosmetologia online - www.estetologia.pl
Open Access, online ISSN 2084-2007; print ISSN 2084-199X, DOI: 10.14320/EstetolMedKosmetol
Wydawca udziela zgody na korzystanie z tego serwisu wyłącznie pod warunkiem akceptacji regulaminu oraz respektowania praw autorskich
Document created: 20 October 2021, last updated: 31 December 2021
© Radosław Śpiewak Instytut Dermatologii